The gently undulating vine-draped hills stretch for miles, accented by dramatic mountainous ridges and ocean vistas. However, recent years have proven increasingly difficult, with mounting pressure from multiple years of drought and dramatic wildfires leading to loss of crops and reduced yields.
In light of this, producers are looking to new varieties that can better deal with such conditions. Is South Africa undergoing a change of identity as a wine-producing nation?
South Africa's viticultural history dates back to the mid-17th century yet, until the mid 1990s, more than two thirds of grapes grown were destined for brandy production. International boycott of South African apartheid and trade isolationism further damaged the country's reputation as a wine-producing nation. Despite this, post-Apartheid South Africa experienced a renaissance in winemaking. Producers honed their focus on quality, with stricter fruit selection, careful winemaking, and long maturation in high-quality oak.
Viticulture has also seen a reversal in trends, with more than 85 percent of grapes grown now going into wine production. Chenin Blanc is still the most widely planted variety but is now more commonly made in a richer, barrel-fermented style that can stand on par with its Loire Valley counterparts, while cooler sites have proven their worth for reputable Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Methode Cap Classique sparkling. Similarly, the country is now famed for Cape and Bordeaux blends, as well as age-worthy Syrah, with wines such as Meerlust's Rubicon, Vergelegen's V, and Porseleinberg quickly establishing themselves as classics on the international market.
South Africa has also seen the emergence of new wave winemakers such as Eben Sadie, Donovan Rall and Adi Badenhorst. Moving away from estate-style production, these winemakers have capitalised on the country's viticultural history, rediscovering old-vine vineyards in regions such as Swartland, capable of producing wines with incredible complexity. In many instances these winemakers have favoured a fresher and more restrained style of wine, with maturation in neutral vessels such as concrete eggs and amphorae allowing the quality of the fruit to stand out. The excitement generated by such wines suggests that the South African wine scene is already evolving at a rapid pace.
The challenges
Despite its comparatively recent establishment on the international market, South Africa's vinous identity has already been under threat. In recent years, the country has had to bear the brunt of climate change, with agriculture and viticulture facing particularly severe climatic pressure. Culminating in the Cape Town Water Crisis of 2015-2020, consecutive hot and dry summers saw water infrastructure pushed to its limit, with water levels in dams supplying the region dropping to as low as 14 percent of their total capacity.
While irrigation is permitted in South African viticulture, with many larger estates relying on their owns dams, growers found that the infrastructure was still unable to keep up with demand, leading to consecutive annual drops in yields. Lower yields inevitably result in lower returns for growers, with many facing financial pressure during this period. Along with reduced yields, insufficient water can have a detrimental effect on vine health by slowing photosynthesis, restricting growth and impacting the grape maturation. Although water reserves have since recovered to a manageable level there is no denying that, given the current trajectory of the world's climate, such issues could arise again.
The Wine Industry Remains under Pressure
Under water pressure, a vine will close its stomata to limit transpiration. Isohydric varieties, such as Grenache, are adept at this process and can strictly control water loss. While this is beneficial for overall vine health when faced with hydric pressure, it can temporarily slow vine growth and grape development. Other varieties, such as Syrah, are anisohydric, meaning they are able to postpone this process and continue photosynthesis and grape development for longer under hot and dry conditions. While this may be beneficial during occasional heatwaves, this can have a detrimental impact under severe drought conditions, leading to leaf loss, stunted growth and damaging the vine's chances for healthy development in the following year.
The recent period of drought in South Africa placed a great strain on many varieties which have otherwise thrived in the area, with growers losing large portions of their yields. Consequently, producers have started to diversify their plantings with vines better suited for arid conditions. "The decade from 2015 to 2024 was the warmest in the 175-year observational records", states Gary Jordan, of Jordan Wine Estate, in his presentation on drought-resistant varieties at the 2025 Cape Wine Trade Show. "In a drier and warmer grape-growing environment, it's imperative that we understand how vines respond to water stress and plan future plantings around varieties and rootstocks that can cope".
Jordan Wine Estate has been proactive in their response to the drought, being the first in the country to plant Assyrtiko in 2019, along with new foundation block plantings of Mencía, Xinomavro, Grenache and Cinsaut in 2025. "The Assyrtiko is thriving in the warm, dry, north-facing slopes within sight of the sea and hence copes perfectly in this environment buffered by the salt-laden winds blowing off False Bay", says Gary. With the first vintage produced in 2022, it bears all the characteristics of a premium Santorini offering; ripe citrus and stone fruits are backed by the hallmark fresh acidity and saline minerality that the grape typically offers. Having already received high scores from several critics, this wine shows the region's great potential to diversify and produce varieties better suited to arid conditions.
When asked whether the future will see a stylistic shift away from the varieties typically associated with Stellenbosch, Gary responds: "It is too early to generalise, but varieties with high water requirements will definitely be the first to be grubbed up. Drought-resistant rootstock choices will continue to play a pivotal role in ensuring the success of any variety planted, particularly the traditional Stellenbosch varieties of Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Where Sauvignon Blanc once thrived on cooler south-facing slopes, one is now able to ripen Cabernet Sauvignon there, so farmers are adapting to the challenges."
While some are replanting with better suited rootstocks and varieties, this comes with an inevitable cost that smaller growers may not be able to shoulder, especially since it may be several years before farmers see any returns for these new plantings. In a recent conversation with Wim Truter, cellarmaster of Meerlust, highlighted a fact that is too often overlooked in the wine world: behind the bottle there is often a grower whose livelihood is dependent on that year's crop. "Following the drought, many smaller growers were starting to question whether their best returns would come from viticulture or from growing other fruit", says Wim.
Fortunately, the effects of drought weren't as severe at Meerlust due to their comparatively cooler local climate. "We are still at a point where we are moving towards a level of excellence in our area", says Wim. "We are very fortunate that we are still able to produce phenolically ripe Pinot Noir at 12 percent ABV." With such a varying topography, Stellenbosch provides a wealth of distinct microclimates, with Meerlust's being so much so that they are considering applying for their own Ward, much in the style of Sassicaia's eponymous DOC.
A rainbow future
With regards to the near future, Wim states that "the focus should be on good site selection and the best variety for that site which, in many cases, is still Cabernet Sauvignon." This potential for suitable site selection was highlighted in a recent horizontal tasting of the 2021 vintage in London, organised by the Stellenbosch Cabernet Collective. Divided into northern, southern, eastern and western subregions, the tasting showcased how much stylistic variation the region is capable of, ranging from fresh and red fruit-forward Cabernets through to muscular, black-fruited examples.
While the future of viticulture in South Africa remains an open-ended question, whether a change in style dilutes a country's vinous identity can be debated. There is no doubt that the worrying environmental changes faced in South Africa will continue to affect growers. However, its comparative youth in the international wine trade plays to its advantage. Long-established wine regions so often come paired with difficult bureaucracy unable to keep up with viticultural needs as producers try and achieve a regional style with their wine. By comparison, South African producers have been able to adapt to climactic demands, introducing new plantings with the future in mind.
Despite establishing itself as a capable producer of premium old-world favourites, South Africa is now showing its potential for impressive diversity in style. Newly planted varieties, such as those at Jordan, are already flourishing. Similarly, the growing cult status of wines such as The Sadie Family's Treinspoor, produced from bush vine Tinta Barocca in Swartland, or the intriguing multi-faceted blends from Pieter Walser's BLANKbottle confirms this. Perhaps, in the future, South Africa will be famed not for its Bordeaux Blends or barrel-fermented Chenin Blancs, as delicious as they are, but for its status as one of the most viticulturally diverse countries in the trade.
